Tuesday, August 1, 2017

This Time It Wasn't Fucking Magic, It Was Mechanical

When I bought my truck over a year and a half ago the cruise control didn't work. For over a year (can't count the almost 6 months of playing Snowbird) I have been trying to figure out what the problem was. First check was the fuses, one under the dash and one under the hood. Actually there's two under the hood after the recall on the cruise was done. Anywho, all the fuses were good . The switch on the brake master cylinder was good.

Googled the problem and got a number of causes including a bad brake light bulb or third light bulb?? All the brake lights worked so that wasn't the problem. The third light didn't have a bulb, but after I replaced it the cruise still didn't work. Then I found how to do a diagnostic on the system using the buttons on the steering wheel. The first diagnostic procedure I found didn't give the codes and what they mean. I thought when I hit the last button the one flash was for that button and one more flash meant the system was good. Then I found another site that gave the error codes and two flashes meant the clutch switch, brake switch or one other problem.

The one on the left is the old switch and the one on the right is the new one.

When I took the clutch switch apart I saw the springs were broke. The part that slides was not being pushed all the way back and was always in the position for canceling the cruise.

On a side note, a couple weeks ago I read an article about how auto parts stores will soon be history. The guy that wrote it had a dealership or something where they did repair work on cars. He said there was a huge markup on parts, altho as a business he got a better deal than the average person. After having had a number of problems with auto parts stores sending him the wrong part or having to wait a couple days he started checking out online parts places. The conclusion he came up with was if you can afford to wait a couple days it makes good sense to order your parts online.

Anywho, I checked the price online with Autozone and they wanted $90. At Amazon I could get a Motorcraft (Ford replacement parts) for $45 and found the one I order for under $25. I took a few days as it wasn't coming from Amazon, but the cruise hadn't worked since I bought the truck, so what's a few more days??

Also on prices, the check engine light is on the truck and I had Autozone check it and found out one of the O2 sensors is bad. Asked how much it cost and was told about $90. I checked Amazon and I can get one for under $20. Now I need to go see my neighbor and see if his code reader can figure out which one of the four O2 sensors is bad.

Progress On 4-Wheeler Project

I have got it running, sort of. After checking the solenoid and the switch found the problem why it wouldn't crank, a bad connection at a plug on the wire bundle coming from the left handlebar. Then it wasn't getting gas. Took the carb apart and cleaned the needle valve. Finally got it to fire, but it would only run with the choke full on. Now it's a little better, but still doesn't want to idle. I have been able to drive it, but it still needs a lot of work.

I need to replace the u-joints on the front driveshaft and the wheel bearings on the front wheels. The left one has a lot of slop, I can shake it back and forth. Discovered the wheel bearing was shot when I put it up on jack stands to work on the driveshaft. With all four wheels in the air I can turn the driveshaft by turning one of the wheels.

Anywho, I checked on Amazon and bearings & seals for one wheel is $12 and for both is $20 so I think I'll replace both.

I may still need to pull the carb apart and clean it better to get it to idle, also I need to check the points to find out why it wants to backfire when I try to idle it.

Then I need to repair the front fenders and the front rack.